When old Thessaloniki burned in the 1917 fire, the Turkish quarter of Kastra or Ano Poli was all that remained. Entering this living window on the past brings you to timber framed houses painted in soft tones, some

having overhanging upper storey's. Small, whitewashed dwellings have bright shutters, perfect for a cat to pass through on his way home. Ambling up and down Kastra's steep, winding lanes, with plenty of steps and tiny rivulets for water to drain, is a great pleasure.

There are fine panoptic views of modern Thessaloniki and the Thermaic Gulf from the Byzantine walls above the houses.

Kastra's original walls were built by Theodosius (379-475), who modeled them on the great walls he built in Constantinople. These defensive structures were rebuilt in the 14th century and, in 1821, were strengthened with marble stones from the Jewish cemetery.